indeed @Shnippy, i do like to use it on the Torpedo Training and the WWII fleet escorted by two Fletcher class destroyers at northern Krakabloa
its fun to shoot these things with WWII AA mechanics lol
waterproof Missiles (Ground and Air) : having subs or any submersibles launch missiles and destroy enemy targets underwater, so the missiles wont deactivate after touching water
OH! i get it now
the cube has buoyancy, then, pistons push it upwards, making the super heavy hull submerge while making the submarine look it dived. thats what i understood, is it right?
The site doesn't like extremely long word soups so my message was cut and actually forgot what I wrote next so I'd ad-lib the next again lol.
Gaff sails are better as they are wide and not too tall compared to Bermuda rigs. If you have extra mast height, you can add Gaff topsails above the Gaff (the stick) and the Gaff sail. It's visible in my Sailboat Teaser.
I apologize if this felt quick as the last few messages that were cut were actually two more paragraphs long but that's basically the very summarized version of it. I apologize for the late reply too as I was sick these past few days.
@Monarchii
Please pin this so you don't lose it. I will explain it with these in mind: zero engines and zero fuel included in the build— pure sailing. Additionally with realism in mind, so waving sails will be the primary means of doing it.
Working sails in SimplePlanes use primarily one method: wings. This of course is obvious but I'll tell you how they function. It is extremely difficult to make a square sail (four-cornered, the ones who catch running wind) as SP wings doesnt seem to like to bend in a realistic fashion and additionally, they dont seem to really be efficient in giving your boat enough push, with how much wind you give it. For example, even if you resize the wing in Overload to trick the game into thinking it's a larger wing, you will need a couple of them to make it wave thus weight becoming an issue. Reduce weight = wings sputter everywhere even with a slight wind breeze. Don't resize them and let too much wind just push you? Unrealistic and honestly could screw with other sails. This is the main reason as to why I never made them.
Unless you want to compromise with a static square sail, the bestest option is to ditch it all together and use jibs and either a Bermuda mainsail or a Gaff mainsail. I obviously will pick the Jib+Gaff sail configuration as this aligns with how SP wings work and is the easiest way you can make a sail rig actually function realistically. See Choufleur, outdated but this works as the very basic sail config I used.
Again, although I didn't say it was impossible to make square sails (I have seen at least two people try two different methods of their own and both worked), square sails are extremely expensive to make it look realistic (sail HAS to bulge to the middle as it is often tied to all four ends of the sail, not top and down only). Hinges are the primary culprit along with segmenting the wings themselves. The least I can tell you is to use triangle wing sections and piece them like puzzle pieces with hinges binding all together. Again, very expensive and not very efficient in doing their job at catching running wind, SP wings doesnt work best with that.
For now, I will tell you why Jibs and Gaff sails work best for SP. DO NOTE that always identify which is the leading edge of the wing and use it as the actual leading edge of the sail. Jibs are often triangular, this helps you in making the shape as well as making the sail flutter.
None, the heart of the seas is deep within me.
Jokes aside, Wright (and the seas around it) for convenience purposes. This is due to the amount of saved positions I have in it.
Although, I fancy Snowstone and Maywar because of terrain colour and scenery.
Adding mass to the wheels usually work (if less doesn't work, try adding more but not to an absurd amount) but since you've tried that method, you should work next to the wheels' traction, and if suspension is enabled, try to fiddle with that too and see if what fixes it. Vague answer but it might give you insights on what to do.
It's usually dependent on multiple things but majorly about the drag. Engine HP would not really matter if you have too much drag on your build. To solve this, you could either reduce the drag by setting the drag of a part to zero or by making the drag calculation of that part to 'false' in Overload. Another thing is to use fixed-angle blades by setting it manually in the part settings.
@Monarchii
Chordscale plays a major role and so is the size of the propellers. You should also consider capping the maxRpm to below 500 to make it look realistic as well as taking in consideration how deep the propellers should be on your ship since if you put it way too deep, they won't work.
@Monarchii
The amount of hinges and buoyant blocks depends on you but the 'least' amount you should at least use is around six each (hinges and blocks, two on front, two on the middle, two on the stern. One on each side). They do not need gyros. CoM is fine wherever as long as the CoM is not too high or the spine is not wide enough to accommodate the high CoM. Additionally, If you plan on making a damage model, you could use the same spine and have the buoyant blocks have low-to-none HP so whenever they get hit by torpedoes, they get destroyed which produce listing on one side.
About the propellers, I am currently using a rotator-powered propeller on my WIP, which was made by another user. I have to ask the specific user if I could lend it to you. It would be better if you tag me on an unlisted (or dm me on Discord) to discuss it.
Although, if you're saving parts and if your ship is big enough (let's say, cruiser size and up), I could tell you some tips on how to make the vanilla propellers work on ships (they produce the actual thrust so if these propellers gets destroyed, they won't produce any). I have this installed on at least two of my battleships. They mostly don't work on smaller vessels sadly, and cannot reverse.
@Monarchii
Surely, you asked the right person for that lol. It would be difficult (and most likely boring) to just read instructions but I'll do it anyway.
The materials you need would be hinge rotators with disabled inputs (range and speed can be ignored) as well as the buoyant fuselage on the end.
The wave dampers that I designed works similarly to a leaf spring. When the weight of the ship pushes down on the hinges, the hinges' flex will decrease the bounce force (or whatever it's called) thus making the ship less bouncy. Again, it is a leaf spring that run across a ship.
What I would suggest is to create a 'spine-like' separate sub-assembly for the damping system where all the hinges are attached on a single part and the hinges are spread on most points (front, middle, and back areas of the ship). The most basic spine I could think of comprises of six hinges and buoyant blocks (Two in the bow, midship, and stern. One on each side).
Another tip is that the distance of the buoyant blocks and the hinges affect the 'sensitivity' of the dampers. The closer the buoyant block is to the hinges, the less effective it is since the hinges will flex less (or flex more resulting in you actually bouncing more). This means that the larger the ship, the easier to make it more stable (on Ocean Mod as well, as it was designed to be used on).
You should always remember that the amount of buoyancy of the blocks will heavily affect the performance of the damper, this is crucial too. Too much and it will be too stiff, less and it will sink more often/deeper than it should do.
If ya need more help, just ask me. I love seeing notifications when opening the site lol.
@Mahoots. There is a neat feature for the camera part, you can set cameras to focus on the cockpit so most angles had a camera + cockpit + piston combo. You can also use multiple pistons (or just rotators) to do some weird panning. I don't know if I have to mention this but yes, I did move the cockpit part all around the aircraft to get 'focus' shots.
@ZeroWithSlashedO
I am using a new image hosting site. It actually is there on my end but if you could suggest a better image hosting site, I'll try it out.
It took time to get those skins as well as their variations which affected the upload schedule. Skins that are not clickable as of the moment are still being processed. Video Trailer
Tags were requested.
Pre-Release trailer for the ADFX Morgan from Ace Combat Zero : The Belkan War.
BGM used- Magic Spear I (self edit)
Scenes Inspired from this
The video used sound effects from Ace Combat 7.
Better with headphones!
Released ADFX01 ADFX02
No problem. What I could tell you though is that you should try to mimic what other users do with their airliner cockpits. That way, you could get an idea on how you should start or at least continue on your progress.
I don't really make airliners so I don't have any experience or have actually seen any tutorials about it. What I would do, though, is to create a lot of segments on that section and cut the top as well as the bottom and create separate sections in order to put the windshield mask of the aircraft (I think it sounds confusing..)
It depends on you. I don't see the actual importance of helicopter wings on the tail in the game but I suggest putting any wing without any control surfaces whatsoever.
What I would do is to use two VTOL engines that has both directions for Yaw (inverted and not inverted) and putting at least one VTOL Thruster on the back of the aircraft. That's what I think would be the simplest without putting too much effort on the input.
Of course, you could just use one VTOL engine that can go both directions but let's just use two for now.
@MarinoYeet
yea, its a feature lol
i forgot to fix the nose before uploading it :v
+1Too bland explanation, but ill try @AnoniMosu , and thanks :3
+1Nakajima made another side-model, the A6M2-N, basically a floatplane zero, made some battles at Guadalcanal or Solomons,but im not pretty sure. lol
+1indeed @Shnippy, i do like to use it on the Torpedo Training and the WWII fleet escorted by two Fletcher class destroyers at northern Krakabloa
+1its fun to shoot these things with WWII AA mechanics lol
M O R E
+1@RAF12fan
+1M o r e D a k k a N e e d e d !
yeet, a ship hull
+1time to make a ship out of it.. again..
ill have this as a ship project staring with this hull
I see Azur Lane Victorious, i press Upvote
+1cant play a thousand part ship tho, sad big oof
waterproof Missiles (Ground and Air) : having subs or any submersibles launch missiles and destroy enemy targets underwater, so the missiles wont deactivate after touching water
+1OH! i get it now
+1the cube has buoyancy, then, pistons push it upwards, making the super heavy hull submerge while making the submarine look it dived. thats what i understood, is it right?
because WE can*
+1The site doesn't like extremely long word soups so my message was cut and actually forgot what I wrote next so I'd ad-lib the next again lol.
Gaff sails are better as they are wide and not too tall compared to Bermuda rigs. If you have extra mast height, you can add Gaff topsails above the Gaff (the stick) and the Gaff sail. It's visible in my Sailboat Teaser.
I apologize if this felt quick as the last few messages that were cut were actually two more paragraphs long but that's basically the very summarized version of it. I apologize for the late reply too as I was sick these past few days.
@Monarchii
Please pin this so you don't lose it. I will explain it with these in mind: zero engines and zero fuel included in the build— pure sailing. Additionally with realism in mind, so waving sails will be the primary means of doing it.
Working sails in SimplePlanes use primarily one method: wings. This of course is obvious but I'll tell you how they function. It is extremely difficult to make a square sail (four-cornered, the ones who catch running wind) as SP wings doesnt seem to like to bend in a realistic fashion and additionally, they dont seem to really be efficient in giving your boat enough push, with how much wind you give it. For example, even if you resize the wing in Overload to trick the game into thinking it's a larger wing, you will need a couple of them to make it wave thus weight becoming an issue. Reduce weight = wings sputter everywhere even with a slight wind breeze. Don't resize them and let too much wind just push you? Unrealistic and honestly could screw with other sails. This is the main reason as to why I never made them.
Unless you want to compromise with a static square sail, the bestest option is to ditch it all together and use jibs and either a Bermuda mainsail or a Gaff mainsail. I obviously will pick the Jib+Gaff sail configuration as this aligns with how SP wings work and is the easiest way you can make a sail rig actually function realistically. See Choufleur, outdated but this works as the very basic sail config I used.
Again, although I didn't say it was impossible to make square sails (I have seen at least two people try two different methods of their own and both worked), square sails are extremely expensive to make it look realistic (sail HAS to bulge to the middle as it is often tied to all four ends of the sail, not top and down only). Hinges are the primary culprit along with segmenting the wings themselves. The least I can tell you is to use triangle wing sections and piece them like puzzle pieces with hinges binding all together. Again, very expensive and not very efficient in doing their job at catching running wind, SP wings doesnt work best with that.
For now, I will tell you why Jibs and Gaff sails work best for SP. DO NOTE that always identify which is the leading edge of the wing and use it as the actual leading edge of the sail. Jibs are often triangular, this helps you in making the shape as well as making the sail flutter.
@spectre118. A themed-upload. All of us followed a specification or an era-appropriate theme to follow.
As my first ground vehicle (to have had effort put into it), I would like to hear what you think about the build to further improve next ones.
@RestlessGalaxies
Sorry, no.
@jamesPLANESii, Well I don't really have anything to argue lol, I just assumed he's busy though still interested in participating.
@jamesPLANESii, I reckon it's not more on the preventing side, more like no time at all to participate?
Which era? That's too vague of a request.
You definitely should have added more pictures of the deck I gave ya.
None, the heart of the seas is deep within me.
Jokes aside, Wright (and the seas around it) for convenience purposes. This is due to the amount of saved positions I have in it.
Although, I fancy Snowstone and Maywar because of terrain colour and scenery.
Adding mass to the wheels usually work (if less doesn't work, try adding more but not to an absurd amount) but since you've tried that method, you should work next to the wheels' traction, and if suspension is enabled, try to fiddle with that too and see if what fixes it. Vague answer but it might give you insights on what to do.
I would love to hear your opinions about the aircraft to improve my future ones.
It's usually dependent on multiple things but majorly about the drag. Engine HP would not really matter if you have too much drag on your build. To solve this, you could either reduce the drag by setting the drag of a part to zero or by making the drag calculation of that part to 'false' in Overload. Another thing is to use fixed-angle blades by setting it manually in the part settings.
@Makrelek331
Man overboard, man overboard.
@Monarchii
Chordscale plays a major role and so is the size of the propellers. You should also consider capping the maxRpm to below 500 to make it look realistic as well as taking in consideration how deep the propellers should be on your ship since if you put it way too deep, they won't work.
@Monarchii, I haven't tried, personally but it might work if the propeller blades turn.
@Monarchii.
Reverse can be compensated by using jet engines. but i guess you're also going with the aesthetics.
@Monarchii
The amount of hinges and buoyant blocks depends on you but the 'least' amount you should at least use is around six each (hinges and blocks, two on front, two on the middle, two on the stern. One on each side). They do not need gyros. CoM is fine wherever as long as the CoM is not too high or the spine is not wide enough to accommodate the high CoM. Additionally, If you plan on making a damage model, you could use the same spine and have the buoyant blocks have low-to-none HP so whenever they get hit by torpedoes, they get destroyed which produce listing on one side.
About the propellers, I am currently using a rotator-powered propeller on my WIP, which was made by another user. I have to ask the specific user if I could lend it to you. It would be better if you tag me on an unlisted (or dm me on Discord) to discuss it.
Although, if you're saving parts and if your ship is big enough (let's say, cruiser size and up), I could tell you some tips on how to make the vanilla propellers work on ships (they produce the actual thrust so if these propellers gets destroyed, they won't produce any). I have this installed on at least two of my battleships. They mostly don't work on smaller vessels sadly, and cannot reverse.
@Monarchii
Surely, you asked the right person for that lol. It would be difficult (and most likely boring) to just read instructions but I'll do it anyway.
The materials you need would be hinge rotators with disabled inputs (range and speed can be ignored) as well as the buoyant fuselage on the end.
The wave dampers that I designed works similarly to a leaf spring. When the weight of the ship pushes down on the hinges, the hinges' flex will decrease the bounce force (or whatever it's called) thus making the ship less bouncy. Again, it is a leaf spring that run across a ship.
What I would suggest is to create a 'spine-like' separate sub-assembly for the damping system where all the hinges are attached on a single part and the hinges are spread on most points (front, middle, and back areas of the ship). The most basic spine I could think of comprises of six hinges and buoyant blocks (Two in the bow, midship, and stern. One on each side).
Another tip is that the distance of the buoyant blocks and the hinges affect the 'sensitivity' of the dampers. The closer the buoyant block is to the hinges, the less effective it is since the hinges will flex less (or flex more resulting in you actually bouncing more). This means that the larger the ship, the easier to make it more stable (on Ocean Mod as well, as it was designed to be used on).
You should always remember that the amount of buoyancy of the blocks will heavily affect the performance of the damper, this is crucial too. Too much and it will be too stiff, less and it will sink more often/deeper than it should do.
If ya need more help, just ask me. I love seeing notifications when opening the site lol.
@SomeSPGuyWhoLikesLore @overlord5453
I'm not sure, either.
@Mahoots. There is a neat feature for the camera part, you can set cameras to focus on the cockpit so most angles had a camera + cockpit + piston combo. You can also use multiple pistons (or just rotators) to do some weird panning. I don't know if I have to mention this but yes, I did move the cockpit part all around the aircraft to get 'focus' shots.
@ZeroWithSlashedO, I initially used imgbb but switched to a new one, I could try it again.
@ZeroWithSlashedO
I am using a new image hosting site. It actually is there on my end but if you could suggest a better image hosting site, I'll try it out.
Sorry, I probably missed the request lol.
@IDK0
@MAPA
@KudaOni
@CaptainNoble
@126
@LoganAviation
@MitsubishiTritonMyBeloved
@S1lly
@DISHWASHER2005
@IDK0
@MAPA
@KudaOni
It took time to get those skins as well as their variations which affected the upload schedule. Skins that are not clickable as of the moment are still being processed.
Video Trailer
Tags were requested.
Historia mutat valde
Razgriz revelat ipsum:
Primum daemon scelestus est.
Video Trailer
Tags were requested.
Pre-Release trailer for the ADFX Morgan from Ace Combat Zero : The Belkan War.
BGM used- Magic Spear I (self edit)
Scenes Inspired from this
The video used sound effects from Ace Combat 7.
Better with headphones!
Released
ADFX01
ADFX02
@MIGFOXHOUND31BSM26.
Thanks for the opinion. Would you try to make it plausible?
You did not wait for me :(
No problem. What I could tell you though is that you should try to mimic what other users do with their airliner cockpits. That way, you could get an idea on how you should start or at least continue on your progress.
I don't really make airliners so I don't have any experience or have actually seen any tutorials about it. What I would do, though, is to create a lot of segments on that section and cut the top as well as the bottom and create separate sections in order to put the windshield mask of the aircraft (I think it sounds confusing..)
A lot of cutting, and experience to go with it.
Care for another destroyer? (Pin)
It depends on you. I don't see the actual importance of helicopter wings on the tail in the game but I suggest putting any wing without any control surfaces whatsoever.
What I would do is to use two VTOL engines that has both directions for Yaw (inverted and not inverted) and putting at least one VTOL Thruster on the back of the aircraft. That's what I think would be the simplest without putting too much effort on the input.
Of course, you could just use one VTOL engine that can go both directions but let's just use two for now.